Posted by Frank Jacobs

If I should die, think only this of me: / That there’s some corner of a foreign field / That is for ever England.

Did those famous opening lines of “The Soldier”, a sonnet by World War I poet Rupert Brooke, inspire Queen Elizabeth II to do the opposite — gift a piece of England to a foreign country? On May 14, 1965, she did just that. Dedicating a memorial to John F. Kennedy, the Queen formally presented the acre on which it stood to the U.S. — the first and only time a British monarch has ever given a part of the homeland to another nation.

A group of adults and children greet a woman in a hat and coat while officials and onlookers stand in the background during an outdoor event.
The Queen (left) welcoming the Kennedys to Runnymede: Jackie (in white) flanked by her children John Jr (shaking the Queen’s hand) and Caroline, and next to them JFK’s two surviving brothers, Robert and Edward. (Credit: Freddie Reed/Mirrorpix via Getty Images)

The assassination of U.S. President Kennedy, just 18 months prior, had shocked the world, but perhaps the UK more than most other countries. The president’s father had been U.S. ambassador to Britain from 1938 to 1940, and a young JFK had spent time in the country during that period.

The choice of the memorial’s location — at Runnymede, west of London and close to Windsor — symbolized an even deeper bond between Britain and America. This meadow on the banks of the Thames is where, in 1215, King John sealed the Magna Carta, a document that curbed royal power by the rule of law, laying the groundwork for constitutional democracy. The charter’s effects can be traced all the way to the U.S. Constitution, many centuries later.

That’s why the American Bar Association had already erected a Magna Carta Memorial in 1957. The Kennedy Memorial, unveiled almost 750 years to the day after the signing of Magna Carta, reinforces that transatlantic link.

Aerial view of a grassy area labeled "Jfk Memorial 1965" with a large American flag, surrounded by trees and paths, shown on a mobile device screen.
This acre inside England is the property of the U.S. government. But that doesn’t make it “American soil”. (Credit: @realityexplained1514/YouTube)

Inspired by Pilgrim’s Progress, landscape architect Sir Geoffrey Jellicoe designed the Memorial to feel like a “meaningful ascent.” Visitors scale 50 irregular granite steps, one for each U.S. state, and arrive at a seven-ton block of Portland stone.

Chiseled in the rock is the deed of the land: “This acre of English ground was given to the United States of America by the people of Britain in memory of John F. Kennedy.” The text ends with a quote from JFK’s inaugural address: “Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, or oppose any foe, in order to assure the survival and success of liberty.”

Behind the slab stands an American scarlet oak, which turns red in November, the month of Kennedy’s assassination. A path leads to two stone seats — one for the president, the other for his consort — providing a view of the Thames.

All very poignant and symbolic. But is this acre of England truly “forever America”?

A woman stands in front of the John F. Kennedy memorial stone with flowers laid at its base, as a group of people observe in the background.
JFK’s granddaughter Tatiana Schlossberg lays a wreath at the Memorial in Runnymede during a service on 22 November 2013, marking the 50th anniversary of the president’s assassination. Etched in stone: the gift of this acre of English ground to the U.S.A. Symbolically, the Kennedy Memorial may be American soil, but technically, it remains British territory. (Credit: Ben Stansall/AFP via Getty Images)

The deed is not just etched in stone: Ownership of the land was effectively transferred to the U.S. federal government, and its management is maintained by the Kennedy Memorial trust, which also funds scholarships for UK students to go study in the U.S.

In that practical sense, Kennedy’s acre at Runnymede is American. But only in that sense. The UK retains full sovereignty over the area. The U.S. does not have any extraterritorial privileges regarding the memorial.

Queen Elizabeth’s gift was symbolic, not a legal cession of territory. But as symbols go, it’s a strong one. The dedication was attended not just by JFK’s widow Jackie, their children Caroline and John Jr., and John Sr.’s brothers Robert and Ted, but also by British Prime Minister Harold Macmillan and U.S. Secretary of State Dean Rusk, who accepted the (symbolic) deed on behalf of Lyndon B. Johnson, JFK’s successor as president. The gift thus underscored the vaunted “special relationship” between the U.S. and Britain.

But there are no U.S. Marines guarding the perimeter, you don’t need a visa to enter, and anyone born inside the acre does not automatically become an American citizen. As questionable as it is, the Memorial’s status as “American soil” in the middle of England does provide the site dedicated to JFK’s enduring legacy with an added layer of romance. So if you want to think that you can visit the U.S. deep inside Surrey, that most English of counties, who are we to disabuse you of that notion?

A medieval king sits at a table signing a document, surrounded by nobles and clerics in armor and robes inside an open tent.
King John reluctantly sealing the Magna Carta at Runnymede on 15 June 1215. The charter reined in his arbitrary abuse of feudal rights and laid the foundation for a Rrules-based system of government. (Credit: Ann Ronan Pictures/Print Collector/Getty Images).

Strange Maps #1276

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Posted by Frank Jacobs

“Two souls, alas, dwell in my breast.” Like Goethe’s Doctor Faust, we all have an inner duality. Recent discoveries about the deep past of human evolution reveal that for more than a million years, humanity was divided into two distinct branches. About 300,000 years ago, those estranged cousins reunited. Every one of us carries within our genes the results of that split, and the reunion of those two mystery populations.

The discovery represents a major reversal of the prevailing theory of human evolution, which suggested that modern humans descended from a single ancestral lineage in Africa.

A more detailed family tree for humanity

Studying human evolution is like trying to solve a four-dimensional puzzle, with just a few pieces scattered across the entire world, and across millions of years. The findings, published in Nature Genetics by a team of researchers from the University of Cambridge, are based on a new method called coalescent-based reconstruction of ancient admixture (“cobraa” for short).

Imagine cobraa as a mathematical detective, examining full-genome sequences of modern human DNA to determine how populations intermixed and evolved over time. Astonishingly, simply by analyzing genetic clues from modern humans (rather than by examining any ancient DNA), cobraa can build a more detailed family tree for humanity than ever before — and can do so for other species too, by the way.

Here’s the big takeaway for Homo sapiens: About 1.5 million years ago, our distant ancestors split into two distinct groups, labelled A and B on this graph. Soon after the separation, group A experienced an evolutionary bottleneck: its population shrank radically. This may have been due to climate change, food scarcity, or some other challenge, but at this point, nobody really knows.

Group A eventually recovered and generated evolutionary offshoots; Neanderthals and Denisovans were genetically distinct human populations that evolved from this separate strand of humanity. (Neanderthals were genetically distinct enough to be considered a separate species. Due to a lack of fossils, the jury is still out on the Denisovans.)

That was well before around 300,000 years ago, when Groups A and B reintegrated with each other. However, it is also possible to say that Group A absorbed Group B, as the genetic legacy of Group A in our shared ancestry is approximately 80%, while that of Group B is only about 20%.

Group B genes may have been important

The research suggests that some of the genes contributed by Group B, the minority population, particularly those related to brain function and neural processing, may have played a crucial role in human evolution.

The study also found that genes inherited from Group B were often located away from regions of the genome associated with gene functions, suggesting that they may have been less compatible with the majority of the genetic background. This hints at a process known as purifying selection, where natural selection removes harmful mutations over time.

Diagram illustrating genetic contributions between archaic humans and modern populations, showing gene flow events, time scales, and approximate percentages for West Africans and Non-Africans.
The Khoisan emerged as a separate group well before another group of humans left Africa, and incorporated DNA from Neanderthals and Denisovans. But what both groups, and the main population of Africa today have in common, is that they derive from not one, but two genetically distinct groups of humans, which had lived separate lives for more than a million years. (Credit: Nature Genetics/University of Cambridge Department of Genetics)

Sometime before 100,000 years ago, the Khoisan emerged as a distinct population within our species. The Khoisan are the indigenous, pre-Bantu peoples of Southern Africa, composed of two groups: the pastoralist Khoikhoi and the San, hunter-gatherers otherwise known as the Bushmen. About 22,000 years ago, they constituted the bulk of humanity. Today, they number only about 100,000 individuals, and their ancient languages and lifestyles are under threat of extinction.

Over the millennia, genetic exchange between the Khoisan and non-Khoisan populations in Africa has continued. Around 50,000 years ago, humanity sprouted another branch when a small population left Africa. They went on to populate the rest of the world and, in a re-do of the previous merger, they absorbed what remained of the Neanderthal and Denisovan populations, who, according to this graph, contributed about 2% of the DNA of non-African populations.

Applying the cobraa method to chimpanzees, gorillas, dolphins, and bats, the researchers found these species exhibit similar patterns of genetic exchange and reintegration, supporting the idea that few, if any, species evolve in isolated, distinct lineages, and that genetic exchange and reintegration may be the norm rather than the exception.

The researchers hope to refine their methods to account for more gradual genetic exchanges than the sharp splits and reunions suggested by their current model. They also want to relate their findings to discoveries in anthropology, which suggest that early humans may have been more diverse than previously thought.

For more, see the entire article: Trevor Cousins, Aylwyn Scally, Richard Durbin: A structured coalescent model reveals deep ancestral structure shared by all modern humans, in Nature Genetics, 18 March 2025.

Strange Maps #1275

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This article Evolution isn’t a straight line: Modern humans come from 2 ancient lineages is featured on Big Think.

April 2019

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